No current price: no retailer we track lists it right now.
20 facts in comparison
Both sit in the ISO shielded family, both need GG45 or TERA connectors to certify at their rated class, and both are usually sold with an RJ45 plug that quietly caps them at the Cat 6a level. The difference between them is bandwidth - 600 MHz for Cat 7, 1,000 MHz for Cat 7a - and what that bandwidth was meant for.
Neither category exists to carry a faster Ethernet. Both are rated for 10 Gigabit across 100 metres, the same as Cat 6a, and neither is recognised by TIA at all. Cat 7a's extra headroom was written for broadcast and building-services cabling that carries several signals on one cable, and for shielded backbones in European commercial installations. That is a real use, and a narrow one.
The connector problem applies to both equally. A retail "Cat 7" or "Cat 7a" cord with RJ45 ends is a Cat 6a link in a thicker jacket; the plug, not the cable, sets the rating. The shielding works only with shielded, grounded plugs and panels at both ends, which retail cords do not provide.
What both bring is heavy braid-and-foil shielding and the stiffness that comes with it. In a factory, alongside mains cable, or in a broadcast rack, the shield is worth the handling; in a house it is dead weight.
The comparison, then, is between two answers to a question a home never asks. Between them, Cat 7a is the higher-specified cable for the same narrow purpose, and Cat 7 is the one more likely to be found in a listing. A buyer who needs either already has the connectors and the installation to match; everyone else wants Cat 6a and the money back.
The uncomfortable thing about this pairing is that it compares two grades of the same compromise. Cat 7a is the better-engineered cable in every measurable respect, and that superiority buys almost nothing for the person likely to be reading a comparison page, because the applications that use the extra headroom get specified by an engineer working from a drawing rather than chosen from a search results page.
Where Cat 7a genuinely earns its keep is multi-service cabling - several signals sharing one shielded sheath in a building designed that way. Broadcast facilities do this, and so do a good number of European commercial installations. Cat 7's position is the weaker of the two: it is the older grade, it does nothing its successor does not do better, and its main remaining role is as a number printed on consumer cords that do not actually meet it.
Both compromise quietly on handling, and it is the thing buyers notice first and read about last. Braid over foil produces a cable that fights back in a conduit, refuses tight bends behind furniture, and needs bonded hardware at both ends before the shield does anything at all. The person who should walk past both is the one shopping on the number alone - which, given how these are marketed, is most of the people who end up here.
Head-to-head points: every spec is scaled between these products only, so a product can score high here and modestly on its own page, where the VS Score measures it against the median of its class.
No standout advantages.
There is no single answer — it depends on what you will actually use it for. Match your priority to the pick below.
Drag the sliders to weight each category and re-rank the products to suit your priorities.
Specs last verified October 11, 2026Cat7 Ethernet Cable: 20 of 28 specs verified (71%)Cat7a Ethernet Cable: 18 of 28 specs verified (64%)Unverified specs show as Unknown — never estimated, never scored
If the installation is already shielded, already terminated in the right hardware, and the design genuinely calls for one of these, the choice is easy: take Cat 7a. It is the better cable, and there is no case where its predecessor wins on merit rather than on what happens to be in the wall already.
If that description does not fit - no shielded panels, no bonded plugs, no drawing naming a class - then choosing between these two is not the decision you are actually making. The real decision is whether to buy into this family at all, and for a house or an ordinary office the answer is no. Buy the unshielded cable a grade down, have it terminated properly, and put the difference towards the switch instead.